Sunday, November 20, 2011

1/10 Losi comp crawler avec LED

équipement de la machine:
- Ballistic Crawler Brushless Motor 18.5T (avec senseur de position rotor)
- pinion 14 dents
- contrôleur: Castle Creations mamba max pro (prise pour senseur, programmable)
- batterie 11.1V 1350mAh 3S 30C LiPo
- Connecteurs Traxxas (soldered on battery)
- Castle Creations 7 Amperes Adjustable BEC (recommandé pour les servos a torque important)
servo: power HD 1501(engrenages en acier) - torque= (5.5v?)

- LED Light Set fait maison: led white 25000 mcd sous 20mA +4 * 100 ohm resistances= 0.6 € / u
dans un support en plastique récupération de consommables de laboratoire.
- peinture Pourpre métallisée. les traces de flamme de l'avant sont en peinture antirouille pour metaux. malheureusement le solvant de pulverisation du pourpre a légèrement modifié l'allure des lignes grises...

 DIG servo: multiplex MPX tiny-S : and  0,06sec/60°  pour 19g

-commande de servo DIG analogique avec un interrupteur bipolaire 3 position stables : contact milieu-gauche/ pas de contact / contact milieu-droite correspondant à : dig Avant / pas de dig / dig Arrière.
les potentiomètres ajustables (gros de 1.7kohm, et 2x 2.2kohm petit pour réglage fin) permettent de couvrir une plage largement suffisante pour d'autres applications a multiples positions de servo (initialement pour declencher un appareil photo).
plan de câblage des switch a relier dans l'émetteur radio à un des canaux :

video du premier test:


Nouvelle configuration des poids dans les roues grâce à de la soudure (40Sn-60Pb) enroulée autour des jantes des roues et fixée avec de l'adhésif : 
Avant: +200g / roue
Arrière: +100g / roue
j ai déjà pu remarquer des améliorations du comportement, notamment un passage facilité là où les roues arrière restaient bloquées lors de l'escalade de rochers. La traction sur les roues avant est probablement plus importante avec 200g dans chague roue.

****commentaire sur amazon****

The title does not mention if the cvd's are updated but if it breaks the SN can be sent to LOSI to get an exchange if it s the old ones. i haven t had any issues so far.
The dig servo can be easily controled with an old remote with 3 channels min., just assemble 3 adjustable potentiometers in serie (2x 1.7kohm + 2.2kohm), shunt the 2 at the extremities with a 2x 2 contacts lockable in 3 positions (contact left - no contact - contact right) switch. use the central potentiometer to adjust the neutral which is connected to the centre wire of your channel plug. You then get either front or rear dig in action - it works great for me - fully "programmable".

Add weight in the wheels: i taped soldering wire (40Sn-60Pb) inside the wheels as it is the cheapest i could find. Losi s manual recommands 175g in the front weels and 75g in the rear wheels. i had to cut some of the foam inserts with a cutter.
strangefully the foams are not the same on left and right wheels (????) upon removal from the tyre, one came back to original shape quite fast and the other did not.

i use castle MMP esc with Novak brushless 18.5T sensored motor successfully contrary to what can be read on the forums - it is compatible without interference :) i use the 15° (????) material timing but needs improvement. an external BEC is recommanded as the MMP only delivers 3 A current to the servo (fragile).

- Battery, Play time: (18.5T brushless, 14T pinion) steep place - flat place with rocks.

2000 mAh Lipo 2S (maxamp) : 54 min - 1h10
1350 mAh Lipo 3S (losi):  50 min (40 min) - 1h05
(good to have 2 batteries when far away from home on a hike)

radio Transmitter: 8 x nimh 2450mAh duracell  => way more than 10h.

-base protection: i wrapped some pvc plastic from a soda bottle around the chassis tubings to easily slide on rocks and avoid damaging the nice looking tubes.

-it is recommanded to drill a hole in the worm gear box to allow inserting grease with a syringe and small needle every 2-3 runs so it stays well lubrified (heats up a lot).

- installation of Losi Non-Slipper Top Shaft Gear

"If you use a LCC then you'll need this gear. One of the biggest problems with the LCC if you run good 2.2 tires that really dig into the rock is the stock slipper letting go. This gear replaces the slipper clutches so there's no more slip if your in to really hard crawling this will be the first thing you should replace"

-most of the high torque servos have 25 teeth head. the package only contains Al servo arms for 23 and 24 teeth servos!
-funny tyre foam (see above)
-grease tends to be ejected from rear worm gear box by the driving axle hole.

options not tried yet:

-HD worm gears
-some people even cut into the chassis and remove parts of it to lower the GC.

-----------------------------a faire---------------------
-HD worm gears
chauffe moins et est avec un rapport final de vitesse plus long que les pinions originaux. a ce qu 'il parait, il se peut que le pinion pour la partie avant soit mal usiné, il faut le limer un peu.


... Just finished eliminating some unecessary weight from the frame. As you can see from pics I dremeled out the cross braces on the frame, the front mounting ears for the front elect. tray, and the top middle frame brace on the motor side which I felt was not needed for support. I also eliminated the long frame stiffeners and moved the short ones from the shock mounting holes, which I thought slowed the process of changing locations quickly, to the top shock pivot location. This made it easier to change shock location, and lowered the cog of the stiffeners!! You never have to move them for any adjustment and now you dont have to hold a nut to loosen for shock arm position!! I also in eliminating the electr. trays and repositioning the battery on the upper links as well as the receiver and bec on the upper links in back on a thin piece of lexan from a body, in total with everything done, got rid of a total of 2.2oz from the LCC all of which were at or above the vehicles COG. It made a big difference on inclines and side crawls.

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